The ‘Shale Lorries’

In the late 1950’s Richard Thomas & Baldwin planned to build Spencer Steelworks, later known as Llanwern, near Newport in South Wales.   It opened in 1962 and employed 1600 people.   The planned site was to the east of Moorland Avenue.   The name of the avenue was significant, as prior to building the huge expanse of steel works buildings, the ‘moor’ had to be stabilised by laying millions of tons of hardcore. 
 

A request went out to the local area for sub-contractors to provide the necessary material.   This was the trigger for entrepreneurs in the South Wales Valleys to become hauliers and buy one or more lorries.   Grocers, entertainers, coalmen, even the retired joined the rush.   With payment on results, two or more drivers often worked in a shift pattern to ensure maximum usage and thus maximum financial reward.   Not satisfied with the amount of slag they could load, owners would often increase capacity by fitting ‘greedy boards.’   These were fastened along the top of the lorry sides increasing their height.   Then they were held together across the top with chains to prevent sagging.    

Owners searched the valleys for any unwanted hardcore or stone waste they could take to make a profit.   Slag and red ash tips that had stood for generations from Pontypool to Blaina were swallowed by the marsh, revealing views and landscapes unseen by generations.

With no bye-passes or motorways, the result, in the narrow, twisting valley roads and busy villages was frightening.   Local authorities and residents from Abertillery to Newport made continual protests.   People were harassed when trying to cross the road, and deafened day and night, by the constant roar of revving engines of often overloaded lorries, travelling at break-neck speeds along ill suited roads to make their next delivery.    Smelly, steaming loads poured water as they travelled, as the dusty shale had to be dampened down.

Llanhilleth, due to its position, possibly suffered more than most, positioned on two steep hills.  Huge lorries thundered down Commercial Road, towards Crumlin and Newport.   Unfortunately,  the weight-to-power ratio often prevented their acceleration up the other side.   They would stall in the bottom, near the railway bridge, or worse, skid and collide into houses or shops on the way down.

In 1961, Mr Marples, the Minister of Transport, in a written reply to Mr Llywellyn Williams, the Abertillery Labour MP described the project as an “immense road transport operation.”   He revealed the extent of the problem when he explained that between January 1960 and 1961, 980 road accidents involving lorries had occurred, but, he was quick to add, in 750 of those no one had been injured.   Although 18 people had been killed and another 280 injured, Mr Marples commented, according to the 

The Times, “no accident was on so large a scale as to cause anything approaching a national outcry.”   
  

After sympathising with the families of the 18 people killed and the 280 injured, we can acknowledge at least a few advantages: 

Firstly, the disappearance of much of the hundreds of tons of coal waste and slag tips which had towered over the welsh countryside for decades.  

Secondly, the hope of the creation of thousands of jobs, ancillary businesses, and a little prosperity by ousting a few hundred wild birds and stabilising an area of Severn marshland. 
  

Thirdly, the valley landscape was re-emerging, after a time when any free space was used as a dump for waste products from both coal mines and iron works.   Suddenly beautiful views across the valley, masked for decades by hills of grey ash, were visible again.   Children could enjoy a natural beauty barely remembered by their parents or even perhaps their grandparents.

The Aberfan Disaster in 1966 ensured that finally, the remaining spoil heaps and waste tips in the valleys were all thoroughly checked by the National Tip Safety Committee, and a plan created to level them.   Certain valley areas may now, on occasion, look like “Telly Tubby Land,” but can be used for sheep grazing or left to naturalise.   But this fragile grass environment can so easily be destroyed, as can be seen from the black grooves and ridges created by off road motorbikes and four-wheel drive vehicles selfishly enjoying this landscape.

Llanwern steel works opened in 1962, and its prospects have varied greatly over the years since.

Dr Reynolds of Llanhilleth

Records show that Harold Reynolds married Margaret Jenkins at Glandwr Baptist Church, Aberbeeg on 6 July 1917.

Dr Reynolds was well respected and an important person within Llanhilleth.   He was very concerned that people helped each other and arranged for boy scouts to collect coal from the tips for the old people in the community who were to infirm to do it themselves.    Local people, grateful for his presence in the village, freely maintained his large house and gardens.   Any  expenses for paint or other materials would be covered by a bill handed into the housekeeper.

The death of this mainstay of Llanhilleth community life was totally unexpected by his patients and his funeral became a grand event for the whole area.   Dozens of local doctors attended as well as from London, Cardiff and the Royal Gwent, Newport.  

At the head of the procession to the cemetery was the Salvation Army Brass Band with teams of six people from each of twenty-five chapels and one church taking turns to carry the coffin the four and a half miles on foot.      Shops in the village closed for the day, and their blinds were drawn in respect.    The four public houses en route closed their doors until the cortege had passed.   The local pawnbroker, although closed, placed chairs outside for the elderly or infirmed to rest while walking to the cemetery. School children stood at the roadside, the girls curtseyed and the boys bowed as the coffin passed. 

The flags at the Workman’s Hall were at half-mast – both English and Welsh and the many coffin bearers retired there for refreshment  after the ceremony, but the Doctors who attended returned to Dr Reynolds' house for the funeral supper.    The brewery at Aberbeeg sold tea at 1d. a cup from a stall set up for people who would not attend their public house.

Dr Reynolds' passing would be remembered.   The villagers of Llanhilleth and Aberbeeg  had paid their respects to a well loved local man whose duties were often called on in those days before Health & Safety Laws and ante-natal clinics.

Speedy Thayer

A  resident of Llanhilleth, Mr Thayer was distinctive amongst this population of flat cap wearers because he always wore his bowler hat.   A tough miner, he first went underground aged 11.   Around the 1940s when he was forty years old, he proposed a wager:

            That he could run from the Pentwyn Pub in Trinant down the valley, across the river Ebbw, and up through Llanhilleth to Brynithel and St Illtyds Church.   Then he would make the return run down the valley, across the river and back up the slope to the Pentwyn Pub. All this to be achieved in 30 minutes.

View from Trinant into the valley below

On the day in question, crowds gathered along the route to watch this unbelievable feat. Bets  changed hands and much talk was made about whether he would make it or fall by the wayside.

The following poem in the possession of his grandaughter was written by his friend and tells the tale:

            Speedy Thayer a tall lean man
            once a fabulous race he ran.
            He was in South Wales born and bred
            was educated, quite well read.
            In Llanhilleth Pit he earned his bread,
            would fight anything that’s born in bed.
            At this time, this place, he was the best.
            The others failed, we took the rest.

            Speedy was a noted wag.
            When a bet he made, it was in the bag.
            He laid the scene, he made the bet.
            This would be the best wager yet.
            From mountain top to mount he’d run,
            in thirty minutes t’would be done.
            Down the hill and up again
            to strive with all his might and main.
            From Pentwyn to Old Church run,
            all in the heat of the summer sun.

            Speedy had his groundwork done.
            He’d made his plans, one by one.
            They’d been prepared, he had been smart.
            Then he was ready, where’s the start?

            Billy the pond would set the scene.
            For years, he had Llan’s bookie been.
            He too was quite a crafty guy,
            was ever poised for something to try.
            When he learned of Speedy’s run to make,
            made a book, the bets to take.
            T’was quite a feat, this proposed run.
            What wasn’t known, it had been done.
            It was supposed it would take place.
            This run had already been raced.

            Out of hearing, out of sight
            Speedy had run this race at night!

            The day then dawned, the crowd had met.
            This would be the best race yet.
            Speedy stripped, limber  became
            showmanship, the name of the game.

            Down the hill and back once more,
            sweat spouting out of every pore.
            For Speedy the result was known.
            God help him if the gaff was blown.

            The whistle blew, the race was on.
            When it was blown, Speedy had gone
            down the hill with nine foot strides,
            his arms were flailing at his sides.
            Down he went the Vale below
            with nine foot strides thro’ rivers flow.
            Brynithel Hill, its head did rear,
            t’was time to take a lower gear.
            Then up the hill, past Ty Graig School,
            his eyes were staring like a fool.
            Then up the zigzag hill he went.
            He reached the Old Church far from spent.
            He turned and looked out over the track,
            surveyed the way he must take back.

            First he’d a glass of beer drink,
            then without taking time to think
            he set off on the return trip,
            the taste of beer on his lip.

            Down to the river, then once more
            the hill to face on the other shore,
            Glandwr, Cwmnant, y, Gynt, Pentwyn
            with pumping lungs he reached the inn.

            He won the race with time in hand.
            A mighty feat, oh it felt grand!

            Billy the pond paid out with glee.
            Well in pocket he would be.
            Most thought that it would not be done.
            None knew it was already done.
            None knew t’was done without the sun.
            Before the race was done at noon,
            t’was run by Speedy ‘neath the moon.

                                                (anon.)

Tales are still told in the village of the day Speedy ran his race.   Some tell of Speedy arranging for people living in the terraces on the steep slope up to Brynithel from Llanhilleth to leave their front and back doors open. This meant he could run through their houses, and not have to zigzag along the terraced roads, dramatically reducing the distance covered.   Still, a fantastic feat to be achieved in thirty minutes, not only once, but twice.   Officially on the day, and previously a practice run by night.   

William Godfrey

William  Godfrey’s  Story

A relative of William's who now lives in Bristol, has researched this man's fascinating life story and allowed me to share it with you.

William Godfrey lived in Llanhilleth for only a few years, but I would like to think the Miners Institute was a familiar place for at least a few years.   Born in Bristol in 1885 he and Joseph were twins.    Along with their younger brother Edward, they came as young men to Llanhilleth in search of work.

William settled (probably as a lodger),  at Brynithel Terrace, Llanhilleth.   In December 1910, aged 25, he married Margaret Meredith, aged 18, at the Glyndwr Ebenezer Baptist Chapel, Aberbeeg.  (The marriage certificate shows his age as 22.)   Margaret was a local girl and lived only a few doors away from William, at 21 Brynithel Terrace, and after their marriage, as was often the way, William possibly moved into the family home.   

In 1912 Margaret and William were living at Argoed Cottages when Margaret Elizabeth, their first child, was born.   William’s occupation on the birth certificate is shown as coal miner.  

On 29 January 1914 Gladys Mary, their second child was born.   By then they were living at St. Illtyd’s Aberbeeg.    World War 1, the War of all Wars was to start in the summer of that year.

By the time William’s third child, Florence Margaret, was born in January 1916, they were living at 129 Brynithel, Aberbeeg and William’s occupation was listed as “Private 10^th Battalion South Wales Borderers (coal hewer).”      As a coal hewer he would have supervised a team of miners.   He was more than likely working underground at the same time as serving as a member of the Territorial Army,  attending the Drill Hall next to the Institute after work.    Sadly Florence as was the case with many children at the time, only lived for 24 days.   Both her birth and death were registered by her grandfather George on the same day, 4 February 1916.

Margaret, William’s wife, had two young children to care for, as well as coping with the after effects of childbirth and the sense of loss from losing this third child.   She also endured the hard work involved with keeping house for a coal miner –boiling water on a coal fire for baths and washing and drying wet, dirty clothes, and removing the coal dust which quickly accumulated each day.

Sometime during this period, William went off to fight in World War I.   During June 1916 he was fighting in France, at “Redhouse.”     Records show William Godfrey, aged 31, (probably his real age), as  “killed in action,” on 7 June 1916.   Ironically, this was documented as a “quiet day.”     His death certificate incorrectly shows his place of birth as ‘Wales.’    It seems in death at least Wales adopted William as he had already adopted Wales in his brief lifetime.

Pte William Charles Godfrey who died on a "quiet day" on the 7th June 1916. is buried at Rue-du-Bacquerot (13th London) Graveyard, Laventie, Pas de Calais, France. The 13th London Graveyard was begun by the 1st Royal Irish Rifles in November, 1914, and during and after the following December graves of the 13th London Regiment (The Kensingtons) were added. The cemetery was closed in July, 1916. It was known also as the Red House Cemetery from a ruined house, now rebuilt, on the South side of the road. 

H W Bailey

A Brief Life Story by H W Bailey, a previous resident of Llanhilleth

This was forwarded to me from Loughborough when Bill was in his eighties. Brief and to the point it was contained within three e-mails.

            My family came from Cornwall where my father was a fireman on the Great Western Railway. I was born in 1928, the youngest of three sons.   In January 1938 the GWR promoted my father, Bill Bailey, from Fireman to Driver and sent him to work in the Aberbeeg  Depot. In the run-up to the Second World War the Steelworks at Ebbw Vale was being re-built and most of the mines were active again.

            It took my father three months to find a house and in Easter 1938 we moved into 93, Aberbeeg Road,  just above the Prims Methodist Chapel. My elder brother Philip was almost 14 and started School at Brynhyfryd Central School.  I was almost ten and with my eleven-year old brother Francis (known as “Mac”) started at the Aberbeeg Junior School.

            Mac and I welcomed the move to Aberbeeg as we realised we would have an opportunity to pass the exam to Newbridge Secondary School under what became later known as the “Eleven Plus”. Back in Cornwall this was only possible if your parents could afford to pay the fees. There was strong competition between the junior schools to “pass the Scholarship”. The candidates had to go to the Secondary School for the day and take the written examinations and the results were later sent to the junior schools in rank order and later published in the local “Argus”.    There was always great rejoicing for those who had “passed” and heartache for those who had “failed.”    My brother “Mac” was second in 1939 and I was top in 1940. My mother proudly sent these results to our old Headmaster in Cornwall who submitted an even prouder article to the “Cornish Guardian”.

            My older brother, Philip was too old for all this, but left Brynhyfryd School in the autumn of 1938 to become an errand boy at a Chemist Shop in Abertillery.   He earned ten shillings a week, but later followed his father on to the GWR (Great Western Railway.)   The sons of railway men were given priority for jobs.

In the War Years, Alderman George Gibbs was the local politician and chair of most committees.    He often reminded us that the Llanhilleth Hall (Institute) originally had a swimmimg baths in the basement, but this proved to be unpopular and was changed into a Snooker Hall.    

Any charity could apply for free use of the committee rooms or the 500-seater theatre. Though no function should clash with Sunday Services.

I remember there was a Library which was very popular.

Dances were held at the nearby Drill Hall which had separate Territorial Army Management,

Llanhilleth had its own Home Guard. Which met in the Drill Hall. I remember the older boys making wooden guns at Brynhyryd School .

We had Air Raids during the early years of the War but the only bombs fell on the Farm at the top of the Zig Zag Hill above Aberbeeg and the Pant Side Farm between Crumlin and Newbridge which was later to become a Council Housing Estate created by Abercarn District Council.

            I was a pupil at Brynhyfryd School in the Summer of 1940 and during air raids those children who lived near enough had to run home while those, like me, who lived farther afield, were allocated to nearby houses to seek shelter.

The War in Europe ended in April, 1945 and Winston Churchill called a General Election soon after in July – although the War in the Far East went on until August.

Churchill had been a very popular Leader and the Tory Party took the slogan “He Won the War, now let him Win the Peace”. I remember going to a Labour Party Rally at Llanhilleth Workmen’s Institute just before the Election. One of the Star speakers was a young man who had fought in the Spanish Civil War. The Election was a Labour Landslide.

By 1944 and after D-Day, the Government drew up legislation concentrating on the Youth Service. All sixteen and seventeen year olds had to register and every area (including Llanhilleth and Aberbeeg) had to organise a local Youth Committee tasked to promote activities for that age group. I was still at Newbridge Secondary School but became very much involved in this. In retrospect too involved, as I went to Caerleon College instead of doing my Highers and going to a University Degree Course.

Many of the already established organisations like the Scouts, Guides and Ambulance Cadets were helped and pre-service Air Training Corp and Girls Training Corp came into being. There was an Annual Youth Week with a Sunday Parade followed by a Sunday Evening Rally in the Workmen’s Hall (institute).    In these Annual Youth weeks there were events each day with football and rugby matches between teams from Llanhilleth and Aberbeeg and on Thursday night a “Go-as-you-please” competition which was held in a packed Workmen’s Hall.    They were rather like the present day “Britain’s Got Talent” and the prizes were equivalent to a week’s wage.

The use of the Workmen’s Hall was freely given to all of these events. Respected members of the Community freely gave their services as Judges, Referees and Speakers.

On the Friday evening of Youth Week there was a Dance in the Drill Hall which was always packed.

The County Youth Service organised a Monmouthshire Youth Sports for all the districts. The first one in 1944 was won by the combined Llanhilleth/Aberbeeg Team.   I think I won the 880 for the under 17’s!   Some our best runners came from Brynithel Boys Club which met in the Catholic Church.   I remember that for one Youth Week we were without a piano for the Friday night dance in the Drill Hall; a friend and I took a day off from School and borrowed a trolley from Llanhilleth Station and used it to carry the Catholic Hall piano down to the Drill Hall. Permission was freely given by the Priest.

The Workmen’s Hall supported all of these events. Thinking back these organisations were all run by unpaid volunteers who regularly gave their services often for several nights in each week.

In September 1945 I started my two-year Teacher Training Certificate Course at Caerleon College.  Normally you had to be eighteen before starting, but we were allowed to start at 17, and were then given a year’s deferment to complete the course before being called up to do our two year National Service. So after the Summer of 1945 I had very little contact with The Hall.

 (In 1947 Bill wrote his college dissertation on “The History of Llanhilleth,” which goes back to Roman Times.   With his permission, excerpts have been included in this blog.   The full document can be inspected at Newport Reference Library in the Local Collection.)

The War in Europe ended in April, 1945 and Winston Churchill called a General Election soon after in July – although the War in the Far East went on until August.

            
Churchill had been a very popular Leader and the Tory Party took the slogan “He Won the War, now let him Win the Peace”.   I remember going to a Labour Party Rally at Llanhilleth Workmen’s Institute just before the Election.   One of the Star speakers was a young man who had fought in the Spanish Civil War.   The Election was a Labour Landslide.

            
So I lost touch with the Llanhilleth Workmen’s Hall. However my daughter Julia who lives in Herefordshire, acts as a Consultant in Social Work.   She had been to a Conference in the refurbished Hall and was full of praise for the excellence of the present facilities. 

             
She was able to travel a short distance up the valley afterwards to visit her Uncle and family who live across the road from Christchurch, Aberbeeg.

Llanhilleth born and bred!

Many of the people I spoke with, and record in this blog, although they truly feel they are ‘Llanhilleth people,’ did actually move to the area at a young age.    Their parents had, no doubt, come to the village seeking work either in the pit or within the infrastructure necessary to support the quickly growing population. 
 
Note: Population in 1800 was 200, in 1900 was 5000 !!

William Godfrey came from Bristol as a young man looking for work in the pit.   He then married and went to WW1 from Llanhilleth.

‘Bill’ Bailey contacted me from Loughborough. He was in his eighties and told me in a series of e-mails how he came to Aberbeeg as a child, after his father was transferred by the Great Western Railway.     He later left to find a career in teaching.

Jack Bancroft born in Llanhilleth, spoke of his grandfather working for the Midland Wagon & Carriage Co. as a wagon repairer in the Midlands.   His father was brought to Talywain as a child, and later worked as Head Weigher at Roseheyworth where Jack was to join him.

Many families moved from the other side of the Severn Tunnel.   As ever, Llanhilleth provided them with a nickname.   They were known as “The Pilgrims,” as they had previously worked for Partridge Jones (the pit owner) and were following him for work.

Others, born and bred in Llanhilleth contacted me from Australia, Bournemouth, Essex, Abergavenny, Blaina.   Some had moved for work, others for family reasons.

There are currently many newcomers to the village, both from Britain and Europe.   All love the area and plan to stay, but with little industry locally, many now travel to Cardiff or Bristol for work.

A fantastic Facebook page is called Llanhilleth Past & Present.  I attach a link to a photograph of Llanhilleth before a lot of it was built.  Unfortunately I don't have a date for this photograph, but assume its late 1800's.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201711766849431&set=gm.491025474346592&type=1&relevant_count=1

Andrews the milk man

Andrews had quite a reputation around the village. This story came from a document in Newport Library.

Andrews filled two gallon cans from the churn so his wife could take them to the bottom row of houses, carrying them on a heavy wooden yoke laid across her shoulders.   Andrews used a similar yoke to deliver milk to the top row.

Dr Reynolds had warned Andrews about this practice, but he assured the Doctor that his wife was used to carrying the heavy weights after fifty years.

“If that poor woman drops dead in the street with that yoke, it would be manslaughter, and you will hang,” threatened the Doctor.

The wife’s lips were blue, her cheeks firey red patches against the palour of the rest of her face.

Andrews noticed a police car watching them.   “Get a move on, woman,” he shouted.   He wanted her out of sight, so the police wouldn’t see.    But even his own yoke was heavy.   He suddenly had the thought What if he died?

He was unable to access the milk float as the horse had moved on and was waiting at the next stop a quarter of a mile down the road.   Puffing and panting, Andrews vowed to get a man to do the top row as it was too much for his health.
(I assume his poor wife carried on delivering to the bottom row.)

Joe Phelps was well-known around Llanhilleth. Some of his recollections are quoted throughout this blog, but others are included on the Llanhilleth Institute website, link below:

http://www.llanhillethinstitute.com/stute-stories/

Edward James Nicholls

Edward James Nicholls, or Ted as he was mostly known moved to Central Road, Llanhilleth with his family, when he was very young.   He later moved along the road when he was married.   As with many other miners, he formed a long relationship with the Institute.   In 1942 he became Compensation Secretary, obtaining financial help for miners suffering from industrial disease or injury.   In 1967 he received a letter from T S Edwards, solicitors, thanking him for his 25 years service and noting that he had achieved the highest compensation settlement after a mining accident, for a paraplegic.

From 1957 he held the post of Institute Secretary for ten years, before being appointed Chairman in 1967.   He maintained this post until 1982, when sadly his health deteriorated.